Saturday, December 26, 2009

Icons of Fashion: The 20th Century. Part I

Coco Chanel in her suite in the Ritz, 1937
Coco Chanel in her suite in the Ritz, 1937

Coco Chanel in her Paris apt 1937
Coco Chanel in her Paris apartment 1937

Maison Gripox for Chanel necklace c1950
Maison Gripox for Chanel necklace circa 1950
As a result of the war time rationing of WWII, the boom of the women's ready to wear market, and women beginning to work: costume jewelry became a popular way for women to embellish their at times severe clothing. It also served as a replacement to real jewels and a way for women to imitate the fashions of their favorite screen stars. After the war costume jewelry still remained popular with sales at 200 million dollars in 1946.

Mme Grès 1938
Mme Grès 1938

Mme Grès with a model 1946
Mme Grès with a model 1946
Mme Grès, known for her draping and gathering, originally studied and wanted to be a sculptor.
She draped directly on the body of the model or client, in order to keep the number of seams to an absolute minimum. Gathers were precisely fixed in place with fabric tape to prevent slips. Her trademark style was inspired by ancient Greece which included white garments with asymmetrical lines and extravagant gathers and drapes.

Madeleine Vionnet pale blue bodice and black skirt in crepe de chine, 1933
Madeleine Vionnet pale blue bodice and black skirt in crepe de chine, 1933
In 1923, Vionnet "invented" (pioneered) the bias cut.

veronica lake
Veronica Lake

Tom Brigance, dinner ensemble with floor length worsted skirt 1940s
Tom Brigance, dinner ensemble with floor length worsted skirt, 1940s

manuel pertegaz, 1954
Manuel Pertegaz, 1954

nicholas ghesquière for balenciaga 1998
Nicholas Ghesquière for Balenciaga 1998


scans via Icons of Fashion: The 20th Century by Gerda Buxbaum

8 comments:

  1. sigh! sigh! Amazing collection of photos! deeply inspiring. The lace dress is dream!!

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  2. I really wanted to know who Tom Brigance was after seeing that image. Actually, I now really want to read this book.

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  3. i love the Tom Brigance outfit. so much. and love Madame Gres. my mother loved her and i remember looking at photos of her in her turbans when i was a little girl. her name is perfect of course.

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  4. That dress laced dress is so brilliant! I want something like that for my wedding. Just really cute and elegant.

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  5. i enjoyed reading all the posts. happy new year! xo

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  6. I'm really enjoying these posts. The Pertegaz dress is so awesome, so frilly, yet so classic.

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  7. This entire post is amazing! The dresses are so classic, I'm loving the Mme Grès images.

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